by Christina Lynch
In the summer of 2018, I traveled back to Italy to do research for a new novel. I intended it to be set on September 8, 1943, the day that Italy changed sides in WWII. I didn’t have a protagonist or a story yet, just a date and some questions: What was it like to be in Italy on that day? How did people react? What did they say to each other? I hired a local guide who was also a historian to show me around the Cassino area, where fierce fighting took place during 1943-1944. She drove me around to the battle sites and massive cemeteries. The numbers came at me like bullets: 55,000 Allied dead in five months. Soldiers from 22 countries fighting on the Allied side. 14,000 mules used to move supplies. I had notebooks full of generals’ and divisions’ names, lots of dates, maps of troop movements, lists of casualties, but still no story. We drove to Anzio and Nettuno, where Operation Shingle took place, British and American egos clashed at the highest levels, and controversial decisions were made that are still debated. I found the endless rows of white crosses deeply moving, but not inspiring. Instead, I felt overwhelmed by the history: I knew I was inadequate to capture it. Not the right writer to tell that story. On my own again, I made one last stop at San Pietro Infine, a bombed-out village on the Lazio-Campania border that was still as it looked at the end of the war. The surviving inhabitants simply moved down the road and built a new village, leaving the place a shrine—or a warning to those who would dare try to forget what happened there. It was early morning, and except for some stray dogs, I was alone amongst collapsed houses and taverns, a church with its side sheared off. Ivy was trying to swallow the ruins, and the signage was fading.
